Author: mark

  • Economics and Medicine

    Facebook post #052 (Jan 2021)

    Last week, I posted my Grandad’s final résumé. It was quite a coincidence that he was posted to British India in WWII. He met my Gran (who liked us to call her by her first name, Marguerite) at Cambridge. She would have been caught up in the war out East herself had she not sailed to Britain in 1935 to continue her studies. It’s another matter of regret that I never had the chance to talk economics with Marguerite, given that she managed a 1st Class Degree at Rangoon, despite having completed the first two years in one. She ‘blazed a path’ to England in 1935, where she was permitted to shorten her Degree at Newnham College, Cambridge, too.

    Marguerite Lewtey
    Marguerite Lewtey

    John and Marguerite married in 1940, and John joined the army in 1942. These were strange times – another relative recounted to me how he and his mother escaped India to Australia. There he joined the Australian Air Force, only to be posted back to his mother’s home town, and then to Swindon!

    John’s obituary recounts that he had command of the Allied Land Forces biological research section in South-East Asia, and that he was mentioned in despatches but I don’t know why, nor have I heard that he ever talked about it.

    But, as a curiosity, it did remind me of the cousin on Dad’s (Larard) side we didn’t know we had, Sidney Maynard Smith. He was also a Major in the Royal Army Medical Corps (pic)(but in WWI), and also mentioned in despatches (three times). Apparently, he was consulting surgeon to the British Fifth Army and then the British Second Army. He was awarded the Croix de Guerre by France, and appointed Knight of Grace of the Order of St John (pic), and Companion of The Order of the Bath. And he was Grand Deacon of the Grand Lodge of England! His wife was sister of the Olympic rower, Frederick Pitman – and daughter of the old Etonian founder of stockbroker, Rowe & Pitman. Quite a catch for a lad from the District Royal Medical Benevolent College, Epsom (around the corner from where Marguerite lived with John’s mother during WWII).

    Badge of the Royal Army Medical Corps
    RAMC Badge
    Breast Star - Knight of Grace
    Breast Star – Knight of Grace

    But for every illustrious cousin I discover, there’s a black sheep! One of the Brittain cousins, Nellie Riley, married a Benjamin Bennett. He also served in the RAMC in WWI. On enlisting, he asserted that he was married to an Ethel Cunliffe. I found letters dated 1918 from the Major at the Queen’s Hospital, Sidcup: “I should be obliged if you interview the soldier and favour me with your observations on the matter, at your earliest”, and then explaining that Bennett “was under a misapprehension”, that Ethel was an “unofficial” wife, and that he would allocate his separation allowance to Nellie henceforward. He was later caught stealing blankets from the hospital.

    Closer to home, John Squire’s second cousin Letitia Marjorie Green (1903-1978) deserves a medical mention. She lived in Dore Village, Sheffield and was one of the earliest physiotherapists, specialising in child polio patients. I found her in 1935 on the register of Chartered Society of Massage and Medical Gymnastics (patroness: Her majesty the Queen), with qualifications in massage, medical gymnastics and medical electricity.

    John and Marguerite may not have met through medicine but it was through medical men that she came to be in British India in the first place. More anon.

  • John Rupert Squire

    Facebook post #051 (6 Jan 2021)

    On this day in 1966, my Grandad, John Squire, died suddenly. It was my Gran’s birthday. And it was Epiphany – a wise man was missing at my cradle 5 months later.

    Here is his obituary from the Lancet.

    The photo is from the Journal of Pathology. (See also posts 29, 42 and 52)

    John Rupert Squire
    John Rupert Squire

    The Lancet also covered John’s illustrious medical career at some length but, on a more personal note, contributions to the obituary noted that he “had a magnificent brain, dynamic energy, and unflagging enthusiasm. He could absorb and retain knowledge with a celerity and ease that was the envy of all who knew him, and he had an unerring capacity to see things clearly, to focus on what was important in any problem and yet never to overlook anyone or any detail.” He recognised new and important developments early, and was excited by developments in computing and automation. “…few are as loved as John Squire was loved… he was a sensitive and indeed emotional man.” He would “tell of his delight in his family… or of going out on a snowy night to feed his daughters’ ponies.” Both commentators described him as nearly irreplaceable as any man might be.

    The John Squire Library still exists at Northwick Park.

  • Happy New Year!

    Facebook post #050 (Jan 2021)

    Almighty God, by whose mercy I am permitted to behold the beginning of another year, bless me with thy help and favour. Mitigate, if it shall seem best unto thee, the diseases of my body, and calm the disorders of my mind. Dispel my terrors, and grant that the time which thou shalt yet allow me, may not pass unprofitably away. Let not pleasure seduce me, idleness lull me, or misery depress me.

    Samuel Johnson

    Happy New Year those who are following… I thought I’d be done by now but there are still a few gaps on Mum’s side, including that metal-bashing story I left hanging last month. But first… I was the first Wheaver born out of the Birmingham orbit since its industrialisation. Lichfield, Staffordshire, is a whole 8 miles due north of Sutton (centre of the universe) and 30 miles due east of Dawley, home of the Lamberts and Captain Webb.

    It wasn’t known at the time that our Barnes ancestors (after whom some of us are still being named) were rooted in the Stafford area. They had been prosperous but this was a period of agricultural depression. Our Charles may have eloped into Peaky Blinder country: the 180-acre family farm was inherited by his younger brother. He kept his dignity (a farmer’s bailiff and a gentleman) but sold the farm (pic). Another brother was jailed for forging a receipt, took over the Goat pub in Liverpool, and went bankrupt. Another worked up to being a miller in his own right but ended up administering poor relief. A sister married a conductor on the Grand Junction Railway who became a tea dealer, and then died of pulmonary consumption at age 36. Charles’ sister, Mary, married a farmer whose farm size halved between 1871 and 1881 and disappeared by 1891.

    Mary’s daughter was widowed young and became a barmaid at the Smithfield Hotel, Lichfield (built for the railway in 1848 – pic). She married the owner and took over the hotel when she was widowed again. The hotel was built over by Tesco in 2007.

    Her son, Samuel Heath (pic), was a grocer’s traveller who became Sheriff of Lichfield and married the daughter of the Lichfield Brewing Company. The brewer gave the land which allowed the workhouse to expand into Victoria Cottage Hospital (pic), and later the maternity ward. I just missed being born in that ward, it having moved a stone’s throw away five years earlier. The new hospital (pic) was also knocked down in 2007.

    Lichfield was also birthplace to the great lexicographer (and composer of New Year’s prayers), Sam Johnson (pic).

    Three of my photos – see ‘pages’ for other credits.

  • A Christmas Retreat

    Facebook post #049 (Dec 2020)

    Where did the Kings of England always spend Christmas?

    The National Portrait Gallery has a portrait of Henry Roberts, nephew of gt-gt-grandmother Brittain, the glassmaker’s wife from last week’s post. In 1891, he was a librarian at an early public library in Durham in 1891. By 1901, he’d moved 300 miles south to Southwark, and in 1907, 50 miles further to Brighton.

    Possibly by coincidence, there were other Meaden family members in town. Certainly by coincidence, my gt-grandmother Wheaver had a first cousin who was a heavy blacksmith at the Railway Works (which pre-dated even Swindon’s)(pic). And another first cousin became the inaugural orchestra leader on Brighton West Pier (post 28) in 1916.

    The Brighton move was a definite promotion for Henry though – by 1911, he was Director of the Public Library, Museums and Fine Art Galleries for Brighton Borough Council! The main collections had been housed in the old stables of the Royal Pavilion, specially extended ten years earlier.

    When war intervened, Henry was closely involved in the decision to hand the Pavilion over to the authorities for use as a military hospital. 12,000 Indian soldiers were treated there. As he observed, it was “necessary to arrange that men from every one of the fighting classes… could be taken in, possibly large numbers of different castes at the same time; yet each must find within the hospital the possibility of living according to his own custom and religion.” This means that he opened what was probably Brighton’s first vegetarian restaurant… 🙂

    The British Library has a copy of a book he edited, A Short History in English, Gurmukhi & Urdu of the Royal Pavilion, Brighton, and a Description of it as a hospital for Indian soldiers, 1915. After the war, the Pavilion was used to rehabilitate disabled soldiers. In 1918, he was Honorary Secretary of the Inter-Allied Exhibition which explained this work; Henry was given an MBE.

    After this work was complete, Henry became the first Director of the Royal Pavilion Estate. From 1920, he oversaw the restoration of the Pavilion and the neighbouring Corn Exchange. His work included improvements to the dome theatre, removing post-1864 decorations, and extending the public areas around the Pavilion. Randomly, he was made a chevalier of the Order of the Crown of Italy…

    In 1939, he wrote the definitive book on the Pavilion, The History of the Royal Pavilion, Brighton. He describes how the building met its original purpose as a seaside retreat for George, Prince of Wales. Brighton was a place where George could discretely meet his Catholic girlfriend, Mrs FitzHerbert. This is mentioned in passing by our Henry, whose preferred explanation for the choice of Brighton was a prescription for sea air for a glandular affliction.

    The building’s distinctly Unregency “Indo-Saracenic” appearance, detailed in the book, had not been completed by John Nash by the time George became King. However, he and his successor, William IV, continued to spend their winters there.

    Queen Victoria, however, was not amused by the fanciful Pavilion and observed of Brighton that “the people here are very indiscreet and troublesome”. Since the coming of the railway, Brighton was much less of a retreat. She had Osborne House built as a replacement, and in 1845, it took vigorous lobbying to prevent the Pavilion being sold off privately. It passed to the Council who held it until 2020, when it passed to a charitable trust.

    Footnote: the buildings deteriorated during WWII, but were rescued all over again by successor librarian/curator Clifford Musgrave, who was given the OBE for his efforts, and wrote another definitive history. Clifford was probably a distant relative on Mum’s side (though sadly not as close as some researchers thought!).

    The pics are mine.

  • A Glass at Christmas

    Facebook post #048 (Dec 2020)

    In London, this was the first Christmas we might have taken a draught of Fuller’s ale. We might too have purchased a few of Tom Smith’s Christmas sweets, twist-wrapped in the French ‘bon bon’ style, with motto included. But this year, we would have experienced a little ‘bang of expectation’ – courtesy of Brock’s fireworks! And, thanks to Eliza Acton, we might for the first time have referred to “Christmas Pudding”. (To be fair, it had been two years since Tiny Tim had been treated to a brandy-infused plum pudding of Mrs Cratchet’s devising, holly and all. Christmas pudding had evolved – with a bit of help from Empire produce – from longstanding ways of preserving meat, and from spicy fruit porridge.)

    On Portsea Island, it was this Christmas – for it was 1845 – that David Meaden remarried (post 45). His five-year old daughter Eliza was destined to be brought up by her new stepmother inside a prison run on military lines. I can’t imagine what social life Eliza and her (nine in a row!) step-sisters may have had… However, when she was 26, she married the boy next door – the son of the chaplain of the asylum next door, the same Charles Edward Brittain who had become a commercial clerk rather than taking the cloth (post 46).

    By the time my gt-grandmother Alice (Gertie) was born in 1870, Charles was manager of the Vesta Glassworks, near the prison and asylum. By 1891, the family were living in Trinity Road, Aston Manor. One side of the road was the Jacobean Aston Hall, already 200 years old (photo: Tony Hisgett). The other side was Villa Park, the home of Aston Villa Football Club, which was less than 20 years old (0-0 with Sunderland on the Boxing Day match, if you were wondering). (The photo is by my friend Ell.)

    Just down the road, Edwin Samson Moore’s colossal Vinegar Works, where Villa’s first Captain worked, was the same age. Fish and chips were catching on! With the pickles Moore had started making, and with his neighbouring supplier, Ansells Brewery, he helped create an exploding demand for glass in Birmingham. The canal network was now well-established and could bring in the sand and other materials needed. Stourbridge’s centuries’ old grip on the glass trade was broken.

    Eight years later, Moore bought the rights to HP Sauce from a small grocer, and started making this taste of empire available in industrial quantities. Charles must have passed by the Works every day but there is a tantalising family story of a closer connection (more on the blog).

    By this time, Charles was a glassmaker in his own right. Until 1892, he was in partnership running the Belmont Works, one of the top five Birmingham glass houses of the era. By chance, I photo’d the derelict remaining building – the old Eccles Cycle and Rubber Works, later used for pianos, bedsteads and knickers while waiting at the traffic lights on the A47.

    Digging a bit more, I found an archaeological assessment that allowed me to plot the precise location alongside the Digbeth Canal (my map below), and to confirm that the works matched a local and contemporary negative I found online (pic). Specialist forums told me that the works were a pioneer of pressed [i.e. moulded] domestic glassware, and that output site varied from plain to ‘flint’ crystal glass and from complex early, partially pressed designs, to cheap mass-produced stuff. I found a Belmont pickle jar online (pic)! After the partnership was dissolved, Charles carried on making glass at a works in Aston Village.

    Glass Christmas tree decorations had apparently been invented in Germany mid-century by a glass blower who couldn’t afford real apples. Queen Victoria and her German husband, Albert, took a fancy to these ‘baubels’, and made them trendy, so it’s tempting to imagine them in Charles and Eliza’s drawing room. The Americans were quick to take up the idea, and a certain Frank Woolworth was apparently making $25m a year from mass-produced versions…

    Eliza died in 1907. Charles remarried, thus disinheriting his family. “She [Catherine] wouldn’t even give the family one piece of glass from the factory.” The last vestiges of the Belmont site were cleared in 2019 in preparation for the erection of a 37-storey tower in the new mixed use ‘Eastwood Locks’ development. The derelict factory is being restored, apparently to be incorporated in another development called ‘Glasswater Locks’.

  • One in Prison, One in the Asylum

    Facebook post #047 (Dec 2020)

    So, we left 3rd gt-grandparents Charles and Maria Brittain in 1851, he a silver plater. But in the 1861, 1871 and 1881 censuses, they lived on the other side of the Jewellery Quarter, and – somehow – had become chaplain to the workhouse and the asylum!

    The asylum had opened in 1850, and would close, as All Saints Hospital hospital, in 2000; all but the entrance block was demolished (pic). This is listed, and provides office space behind the wall of Winson Green Prison, where David Meaden was governor (post 45). Thirty years after it opened, another was built down the road at Rubery. It was here that our unfortunate Samuel Wheaver ended his days in shell shock (post 42).

    Birmingham Union Workhouse (pic) was the other side of the canal, and could accommodate 700 adults and 300 children. An infirmary was built in 1887, to a design championed by Florence Nightingale. She had overseen the introduction of trained nurses into the workhouse system: their predecessors were caricatured by Dickens in ‘Mrs Gamp’ (pic). The fear of ending up in the workhouse would have been palpable; our unfortunate Benjamin Weaver (whose descendant married Charles’s) ended his days down the road in the Aston Union Workhouse in 1881 (post 24). The Birmingham site was redeveloped as the City Hospital in the late C20.

    Charles and Maria had 14 children, and the church dominated their lives. They sent two of their daughters to the Clergy Daughters School – it had moved to Westmorland since the time two of the Brontë sisters died of TB at the school. One of these daughters later became a school mistress, the other a governess who married a vicar in Canada; another daughter married the vicar of Cleeve Prior, Worcestershire.

    One of the sons used his clergy education to become a teacher of the classics. Two others became clergymen, one having started in engineering. Another son founded an Augustine Mission in Fulham, became Canon of Madras Cathedral in India, and ended up as vicar of Whittlebury-cum-Silverstone in Northamptonshire (pic – Ian Rob). Our Charles Edward became a commercial clerk – more of him next week.

    If you prefer preachers of the ‘hellfire and damnation’ variety, we have them too. Daniel Lambert (whose grandson married Charles Edward’s granddaughter) had a sister Jane. While Daniel taught at a British school, for pupils of “every Religious Persuasion”, Jane taught at a rival National School, which stressed Anglican religious education.

    She was also a lay preacher, and in 1876 in Shropshire, she married a Primitive Methodist minister. “As a preacher, [he] belonged to the evangelical school, preaching a full, free, and present salvation; his sermons were carefully prepared and forcefully delivered.” I found them in Buckingham in the 1901 census, and realised that I’d photo’d his chapel (pic), unaware of any connexion. Then I found a list of his former postings, and that I’d photo’d his chapel at Oswestry too.

  • All That Glitters

    Facebook post #046 (Dec 2020)

    Family tree post 46. In the C19, Birmingham was the workshop of the world. After generations in Knowle, Warwickshire (see post 41), Edward Brittain moved into Birmingham, probably for work. He married Mary Plant in Edgbaston (where development was restricted) in 1813. Of his children, baptised at St Philip’s, later the Cathedral, Charles married Maria Hill in in 1836 in Sutton Coldfield.

    St Philip’s Cathedral, Birmingham (my photo)

    These days a chunk of central Birmingham, to the north-west of the cathedral, is known as the ‘Jewellery Quarter’, acknowledged as modern centre of jewellery and a place of unique character in the world for its particular combination of structures associated with jewellery and metalworking. But it was not the jewellery business which brought the Brittain and Larard families together. While it is true that jewellery businesses clustered together to collaborate, the range of small metal products extended from badges to whistles to fittings for beds, doors and coffins. All that glittered in Brummagem was not solid gold or silver.

    By 1841, when the couple were 20, he was a silver plate worker, very likely at the Soho Manufactory, an early factory, north west of the Jewellery Quarter, which pioneered mass production. It operated from 1766, was the first site with a Watt steam engine in 1782, and closed in 1848. His brother Edward and cousin George were also silver platers: by 1851, electro-platers. This was a new industry, the new Elkington process having been patented in Birmingham in 1840, and using electric generators from 1844 (surviving part of the Elkington building pictured).

    Former Elkington building, Birmingham
    Elkington Nutcrackers

    1851 was the year of the Great Exhibition: alongside the iron products (see post 33), electroplated goods were prominent. The process was based on potassium cyanide as an electrolyte, the same highly toxic compound used by Larard gold prospectors – and, famously, as a suicide pill.

    It’s worth noting in passing that the Lambert family (post 27) were still making iron. One of Jesse’s iron founder sons was to move from Shropshire to the Jarrow and then Stockton, another to Stoke-on-Trent (my photo is of a sculpture paying tribute to the industry there). One of his daughters was a servant in the great house in Coalbrookdale, overlooking the world’s largest foundry. There is more to come on the Squire side too.

    Charles and Maria Brittain moved to Bath Street, now in the ‘Gun Quarter’ (just east of the Jewellery Quarter) , near the Gunmakers’ Arms. His cousin Edward made pistols for Tranter, a precursor to BSA, but Charles’ career took an altogether different path, of which more anon.

  • Winson Green

    Facebook post #045 (Nov 2020)

    In 1856, there was a sensational trial at the Birmingham assizes. Lt. William Austin had replaced the well-known reformer Alexander Maconochie as governor of the Borough Gaol. Maconochie, the prison’s first governor, had been retired due to the perceived laxness of his regime. By contrast, his former deputy Austin had instituted a reign of terror. A Royal Commission had investigated a whistle blower’s accounts of the inhumane treatment of skinny 15-year old, Edward Andrews, convicted of throwing stones, scrumping apples and stealing a piece of beef. He had been punished cruelly when he couldn’t manage the routine hard labour of endlessly cranking a weight on a machine, and had committed suicide. Austin was himself jailed.

    His replacement as governor at Winson Green (later HMP Birmingham) was David Meaden, my gt-gt-gt-grandfather. He was a former warder at Pentonville and Parkhurst prisons, and likely to have been present when Queen Victoria visited Parkhurst in 1845. She remarked on the loneliness of the boys in the routine initial solitary confinement, and with more satisfaction on the practical skills they learned. 1500 boys were sent to Australia and New Zealand from Parkhurst. During their training, the boys were guarded in the fields by soldiers with muskets and bayonets, presumably including David.

    David’s first wife was Eliza Waddilove, daughter of ‘gentleman’ James Waddilove and sister-in-law of the unfortunate Zillah from last week’s post. Her first husband had died in Lambeth at age 30, a couple of years after they lost their only child. She had two daughters with David, and died at age 33. The elder daughter was Eliza Meaden Meaden, David clearly not wanting her to lose her identity when she married!

    When he married Eliza, David was the son of a farming family from Blandford in Dorset. He had enlisted in the Life Guards (pic is contemporary), possibly via the Dorset Yeomanry Cavalry. He was based in the Regent Park Barracks (pictured), designed by John Nash. Accommodation was, however – as too often over the years – sub-standard. By the time Eliza jr was born, he was a different sort of guard – on the London & Birmingham Railway!

    David remarried on Portsea Island in 1843, and was a prison officer by 1845. He went on to be ‘an active and zealous officer’ at Winson Green, but was replaced when the government took over the prison in 1878, possibly as a result of three prisoners escaping the previous year.

    In 1964, ‘great train robber’ Charlie Wilson escaped from the prison. In 1995, Fred West killed himself there. In the same year, the prison was accused of being too lax by its own Board of Governors. In 2018, it was taken over by the government after a privatised regime of ‘violence, drugs and squalor’.

    There is a picture of the cranking machine, tightened by ‘screws’ (!) here: https://www.facebook.com/…/a.21454939…/1597193173771813/

  • SS Princess Alice

    Facebook post #044 (Nov 2020)

    So, I promised you disaster. (See also the Wharncliffe Woodmoor colliery explosion in post 16 and the response to sinking of the Titanic in post 40). Last week, in my family war memorial – as well as the Somme, Ypres, Gallipoli, Monte Cassino, the R.38, and the RNAZ Dakota calamity – my post included the devastating explosion of HMS Princess Irene (pic 3) at Sheerness in 1915, which killed 352, including a cousin. There had been worse.

    On 4 September 1878, John Marsh of Clerkenwell was an early witness at an inquest. He formally identified his deceased mother-in-law Zillah Waddilove, my 4th great aunt. She had been on a St John’s Mission Bible outing which had gone badly wrong. It was a treat from Susannah Law, a wealthy and generous woman, who had promised the poor women in her Bible group a day out. It was to be on 5 September but on seeing what a beautiful day it was on 3 September, she declared “Today’s the Day!”

    Zillah née Teager had already had a tough life. She had lost three children in 1848, probably in the cholera epidemic of that year. She lived in St Giles, a focus of infection; the area gets a mention by Charles Dickens:

    How many who, amidst this compound of sickening smells, these heaps of filth, these tumbling houses with all their vile contents, animate and inanimate, slimily overflowing into the black road, would believe that they breathe this air?

    The Old Curiosity Shop (1841)

    Zillah’s husband died in 1854; a year later, she married John Waddilove in St Giles. By 1861, John was a pork butcher; the couple lived at 17 Aylesbury St, Clerkenwell, a stone’s throw from William Larard’s shoe business. There is no known connexion between the families but William’s brother’s grandson (Ernest Larard) and John’s sister’s granddaughter (Gerty Brittain) were my gt-grandparents. They married in Birmingham in 1900. By further coincidence, my Dad worked on one adjoining street in Clerkenwell in the 1970s, and I worked on another in the 1980s. (See post #025).

    Back to Zillah, forward to 1878. The vessel of choice for the day out was the smart paddle steamer pleasure-craft, the SS Princess Alice, named after Queen Victoria’s daughter. She weighed 432 tons gross. Princess Alice’s destination was Sheerness – the same port where Princess Irene met her fate. Londoners could escape to the seaside there away from the Great Stink. Some passengers alighted at the resort of Gravesend, others at the Pleasure Gardens at Rosherville. The atmosphere was happy: people were chattering about the terrible rail collision at Sittingbourne three days earlier, and glad to be on the water instead of on the rails.

    Princess Alice left Rosherville at about 6:30 pm on the final leg of her return to Swan Pier, by London Bridge. A little over an hour later, there was a terrible pre-echo of the Marchioness Disaster from my time in Clerkenwell. The Princess Alice was struck amidships by a much larger vessel, the 1376 tons collier SS Bywell Castle. The smaller boat had no chance, and sank quickly, trapping many below decks. The crew of the Bywell Castle and boatmen from local factories did what they could, saving about 130 people. By the time the Princess of Alice’s sister ship arrived ten minutes later, there was no one left to save.

    Some of those rescued died from ingesting the water. The miraculous Crossness Pumping Station, which had helped deliver London from Cholera, had – as usual – that day pumped 75 million gallons of decomposing raw sewage into the Thames close to the collision point. The gas works and chemical factories discharged to that stretch of the Thames, and there had been a fire that day, resulting in oil and petroleum entering the River.

    There was no manifest, so it is not known how many died, but it was between 600 and 700, making this the worst disaster on British inland waterways.

    (For the 1989 Marchioness Disaster, see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marchioness_disaster).

  • St Mary-at-Lambeth

    Facebook post #043 (Nov 2020)

    Once upon a time, lambs were landed on the marshy land opposite Thorney Island on the River Thames, perhaps even to supply the wedding feast at which King Cnut III drank himself to death. The next King, Edward the Confessor, built his house and church on the island: his sister Goda built her church at the Lamb-hythe (Lambeth), and gave land to the Bishops of Rochester. When Edward fell into a coma, it was in Lambeth that Harold proclaimed himself King, and in Edward’s church (Westminster Abbey) that he was crowned.

    An arrow in the eye later, William I made Westminster his own; after the Anarchy, the Bishops swapped Lambeth for other lands; the Archbishops of Canterbury got their town house, Lambeth Palace. Goda’s church, St Mary-at-Lambeth, had been rebuilt in stone. It became their church, and the parish church.

    My gt-gt-gt-grandparents William and Charlotte Little (of Wiltshire and possibly Devon families respectively) had nine children baptised at the church 1800-1819, and three of their grandchildren married there. Charlotte was buried there, one of the 26,000 contributing to a noticeable raising of the land. The tomb of Admiral Bligh of the Bounty can still be seen.

    One of the Little children was my gt-gt grandmother Harriet, who married watchmaker James Larard. In 1841, they lived near the river in Lambeth. After a time in Canada, James returned to Lambeth, and his son Henry was born there.

    Solomon and Mary Ann Knight (of Surrey and Sussex families), also my gt-gt-gt-grandparents, had six children baptised at St Mary in 1811-1822. Two of the children married at the church, including my gt-gt Grandmother, Rebecca. Thomas and Rebecca lived in Shropshire, which is where their daughter Frances Mousley was born. However, one of her sisters was born in Lambeth, indicating a continued connexion with the area.

    In 1862, the first Lambeth Bridge was built, right next to St Mary, where the horse ferry used to connect the palaces. (It was rebuilt in 1928 when 4000 were made homeless by the last of innumerable floods on the old marshes.)

    I don’t know if the Little and Knight families knew one another but their grandchildren Henry Larard and Frances Mousley married in Croydon in 1870. Their son Ernest ended up in Birmingham: Ernest’s daughter married my grandad Terence Wheaver there. Oddly, one of Terence’s grandmother’s cousins, Fanny Barnard, was married at St Mary in 1865.

    In 1824, to serve the rapidly increasing population of the former marshes and woodlands, matching Greek Revival churches of Matthew, Mark, Luke and John were built across the borough. Henry Larard was christened at St Mark (Kennington). Solomon’s descendants lived in Norwood, and St Luke was the family church. One married at St Matthew, which was in Brixton.

    In 1942, both St Mary-at-Lambeth and St Luke were damaged by bombing (post 33). The altar, given by Sir Henry Doulton of the local ceramic works was destroyed. In the same year, a V2 rocket destroyed the Victorian Baths at which Captain Webb (post #031) had trained.

    The area became derelict and depopulated. The church became gloomy and dilapidated; it was deconsecrated and approved for demolition in 1972. At the eleventh hour it was rescued and, in honour of John Tradescant, converted to a Garden Museum. John was Gardener at Hatfield House, and planted a botanic garden close to St Mary; there is a splendid memorial to his son in the church. Sadly, I didn’t have time to go inside when I passed by just before the first lockdown – but I did take a minute to walk in my ancestors’ footsteps.

    More about John Tradescant and the Museum here: https://gardenmuseum.org.uk/the-museum/history/tradescants/